Café Zupas Blog

The Cocoa Powder Conundrum Uncovered

March 2nd, 2010 - by

If you like chocolate and you like to bake (I’m guessing that’s a lot of you!), then you’ve probably stumbled upon recipes calling for Dutch process cocoa.  When you head to your pantry and discover that your Hersheys powder is anything but, you wonder what the difference is between the two.  Is one better than another?  What’s the dealio here with cocoa anyway?  Well, let’s talk about that…

Differences between the two types of cocoa powders:

Natural, unsweetened cocoa powder (basically any cocoa powder you find at the grocery store that doesn’t specify “Dutch process”) is a mild acid with a pH of about 5.5.  Natural cocoa powder has a bitter taste, but adds deep chocolate flavors to baked goods according to many sources.  It is also lighter in color.

Dutch-processed cocoa has been treated with small amounts of alkaline solution (invented by Dutchman Coenrad Van Houten-hence the name), which neutralizes the acidity in the cocoa.  Dutch process cocoa is also known for it’s smoother, silkier flavor, and dark, reddishi-brown color.  Dutch process cocoa can be difficult to find, and the best brands are more expensive than say Hersheys, but experienced cooks will tell you it’s worth it if you love to bake, especially “fancier” things like pastries, icings, custards, etc.

Is there a substantial taste difference between the two?

This is somewhat debatable…some will say “no”, but most will say “yes”. In a blind taste test hosted by Cooks Illustrated, Dutch process cocoa scored high marks in every.single.category–Devil’s food cake, pudding, pudding cake, shortbread and hot chocolate. However, according to the Chowhound, all of their tasters preferred natural cocoa in their hot chocolate.  Personally, I use Dutch process about 75% of the time as I prefer it’s color and taste.

How do I know which type of cocoa powder to use if it doesn’t specify “natural” or “Dutch process”?

I love it when a baked good recipe specifies “natural” or “Dutch process” because this obviously makes things easier on me, the cook. But, sometimes recipes just say “cocoa powder” and I’m left wondering which to use.

Dutch process cocoa should only be used in recipes calling for baking powder (not soda), given the alkaline treatment it undergoes.  Dutch process cocoa can also be used in recipes calling for buttermilk or vinegar. Following this simple rule is particularly important when making recipes with volume, like cakes.

Some experts will tell you that substituting natural cocoa for Dutch process is okay, but not vice versa.  Keep in mind though that if a recipe calls for Dutch process and you substitute natural, expect slight flavor and/or color differences in the end product.

Where can I find Dutch process cocoa powder outside Europe?  Is it more expensive?

You can find Dutch process cocoa at fine food markets, Whole Foods, Cost Plus or Trader Joes. You can find many of them on Amazon as well; just make sure you buy the brands mentioned below for best results.

Sometimes Dutch process cocoa is the same price, and sometimes it is more expensive.  It all depends on the brand.  I’ve noticed that time and time again cooks generally recommend Valrhona, Droste or Callebaut.  These brands tend to be a little more expensive, but not unreasonably so.  Good chocolate flavor is just that…good chocolate flavor!

In a pinch, you can also create your own substitution according to What’s Cooking America:

Dutch-process: 3 Tablespoons natural cocoa powder + pinch (1/8 teaspoon) baking soda

Natural cocoa: use same amount of Dutch process, but leave out any baking soda in the recipe

Happy Baking!

One Response to “The Cocoa Powder Conundrum Uncovered”

  1. Claire says:

    Thank you, Steph! This is some great information that answers some of my questions. I just love your posts here.

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